SPI.dmaSend() broken on STM32F1?

Working code:
uint8_t buffer[504];
SPI.write(pcd8544_buffer, 504);


Okay, I spotted the problem: while the SPI-library does have the functions for SPI-transactions the line #define SPI_HAS_TRANSACTION

WereCatf wrote:
<…>
Now, why is that define commented out by default? What’s the point with that?

mrburnette wrote:WereCatf wrote:
<…>
Now, why is that define commented out by default? What’s the point with that?

WereCatf wrote:
<…>
That’s nearly two hundred pages of stuff and there’s a whole lot of unrelated stuff mixed in

mrburnette wrote:History is yesterday. Today is opportunities. I appreciate you level of testing as it has shown some serious flaws, but many of us use the STM32F103 daily and it functions adequately; but that really is not good enough, the issues needs to be fixed. For a self-proclaimed newbie, you seem to be quiet capable – have a go at fixing some of this stuff, I know it will be appreciated.

I need more SPI-devices to play with

I think all of us have some deficiencies in having a wide array of I/O devices. Those still working (I’m retired) may have the budget but not the time to support the diversity of all the things that need testing. Constraints abound.

I had a little play with the Nokia 5110 and the Maple back about 18 months ago…
http://www.hackster.io/rayburne/bmp180- … uino-1-6-0

I was too lazy to put the Nokia stuff into a library, but I think I have read that it has been done for the STM32F103 in the forum. Of course, if you have enhancements, that will be very interesting, too.

Ray

mrburnette wrote:Of course, if you have enhancements, that will be very interesting, too.

WereCatf wrote:[
Alas, I need more SPI-devices to play with so I can test things and port any relevant libraries over I only have the PCD8544, two ILI9341’s and an SD-card adapter, and I’m all out of money to buy more junk.

madias wrote:Some useful “toys” are the super cheap Winbond SPI flash chips, like http://www.aliexpress.com/item/25Q64BVS … 42757.html (only as example, I’m sure you’ll get them cheaper or desolder one from a “dead” ESP8266)

WereCatf wrote:
I have a dead AR9331 – device that has a 16MB Winbond SPI Flash, but I don’t know how to desolder it. The pins are just too fucking small, and I’d have to be able to desolder all of them simultaneously to get the chip free. I did toy around with the idea of replacing an ESP8266’s 4MB flash with that, but if I can’t even desolder it…

Desoldering braid also help to at least remove most of the solder.

madias wrote:If you don’t own an old oven, you can do it like I have done many times: Pick a super small wire (from a coil (small e-motor)) and try to thread it under the first pin while holding the soldering iron on it (use flux or something to spread the heat).

WereCatf wrote:madias wrote:If you don’t own an old oven, you can do it like I have done many times: Pick a super small wire (from a coil (small e-motor)) and try to thread it under the first pin while holding the soldering iron on it (use flux or something to spread the heat).

WereCatf wrote:
There are no pins to lift up, it’s this chip: http://wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-d … 85400.html
It’s just a shame to let a big, fat flash-chip go to waste. I don’t like throwing stuff to waste.

madias wrote:Ok, I didn’t know it’s a WSON package, thought it is a SOIC
Ok, with WSON you really need a hot air gun as Ahull wrote, or a reflow oven (On of those old rusty portable electric oven should work (Temp 200-230 Celsius), but keep in mind that you never should cook food into it again).

WereCatf wrote:
<…> for the price of a single hot air gun, so I’m not sure that’s a cost-effective proposition, either. I’ll have to think about it, I just ain’t sure I’ll have enough use for the hot air gun for it to be worth getting.<…>

mrburnette wrote:I agree and held off for years from such a purchase. But I broke down last summer and purchased a cheap Chinese unit for around $50 including free shipment. I have come to love this thing. I have salvaged lots of parts from dead boards, I have put away the butane cigarette lighter that I used for years for shrink wrap tubing, and I have reflowed a few cheaply manufactured Nano/Mini boards and got 100% restore. Plus, I’ve done some of my own SMT on homemade PC boards. Someone mentioned using them for reflowing hot-melt glue – I have not tried, but it sounds promising.

WereCatf wrote:
<…>
I don’t have the space to store dead electronics and stuff, I live in a very small apartment-condo, so I don’t really have anything to even salvage anything from I am quite jealous of all the people who have the room to dedicate to a workshop!

I agree on the space thing, I have a small “workshop” but useless clutter outweighs useful stuff very easily if I am not careful. My hot air gun was a recent purchase, and I too resisted, telling myself I didn’t really need it, for quite a while.

It is actually quite useful for a whole bunch of other things besides soldering and de-soldering, because the temperature is very controllable (with a little skill). It will make most plastics soft/flexible, without blistering, and can also strip paint if you crank up the heat. It is the cheapo one I linked to previously, so I wouldn’t say the quality is very high, but for the price, I am pretty pleased with the results. It does indeed melt hot glue, and can heat seal plastic bags with a little care.

I have recovered SMD components with a gas blow torch (which takes a lot of care/skill/luck), but the hot air gun makes the process effortless. One thing I will say however is that the temperature is not very well calibrated, so a little practice is necessary to get the feel for the right range and timing to get the perfect result. Hot air+flux+solder paste gives very good results. The other indispensable tool is a good magnifier, or in my case several. This may in part be an age thing of course 3x reading glasses and a jewellers loupe should do the trick for most things.

Agreed, Andy… flux is a key ingredient for a successful flow soldering experience. It is also useful to have some 91% – 99% IPAaround to clean-up. A soft-bristle toothbrush or even better one of the brushes provided with an electric shaver makes quick cleanup of the flux. Use compressed “duster” to initially (visibly) dry the board. Since 91% alcohol is still 9% water, the lower the percentage of water, the quicker it will be to dry the board. I used to use an old discarded hair dryer for the drying purpose but the hot-air device works better at low setting as it is much easier to direct the air flow to ensure under-chip areas are thoroughly dry. IMO, very critical boards with high resolution A-D or boards with sensitive analog components may need a second cleaning and “baking” at a low temp to completely remove moisture.

Ray

WereCatf wrote:Working code:
uint8_t buffer[504];
SPI.write(pcd8544_buffer, 504);