New STM32F103ZET6 board in ebay

Hi there, for who can be interested now in Ebay there’s also this board available: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI. … 2098356879

It features:

• STM32F103ZET6
• 8MHz & 32.768KHz (RTC) crystals
• AMS1117 as LDO (higher power dissipation but also higher power delivery for DIY projects)
• AT24C08 (1K) I2C eeprom
• W25X40BVSN (512K) SPI flash

For a complete list of features you can refer to the corresponding Taobao link (the Ebay seller kindly accepted to make it available via Ebay for people like me not able to buy via Taobao): https://world.taobao.com/item/355981241 … .14.LWrN65

Unfortunately the vcc-gnd.com site which contained the board schematics is not available anymore..

Best, E.

Thanks E.

I have the other ( smaller ) vcc-gnd F103ZET board, but its a little different to that one.

I think mine has SD as well, but as its connected to SDIO its unusable at the moment ( as we dont have a SDIO library)

Its a shame the vcc-gnd site is still offline. I hope they have not gone out of business, as I think they make the BluePill as well

I have just noticed another ebay seller for this board:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/minimum-syste … 2287591106

Has anyone got any experience with this particular variant?

I bought one from the first link but I’m still waiting for it to arrive: average delivery time from China to my country is 50 days..
Anyway I already have the VET version: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-STM32F103VE … SwKtlWlKqC
and I have no complaints for it.
vcc-gnd.com boards seem to me good boards.

Thanks E. I’ll get one on order.

I wish they would put mounting holes in these boards.

this second link is £2ukp cheaper, also there is a second seller with them also at £9.73ukp.
my problem is with the double row of connections, also the pins always seem to be a short length.

stephen

The best would be to be able to buy it directly via taobao.com but it’s not that easy..
Respect to the double row connections: the chip has 144 pins and even this way is 85mm long, without the double rows it should be twice long…

zmemw16 wrote:my problem is with the double row of connections, also the pins always seem to be a short length.

stephen

precisely, oodles of bread boards.
even though the vl-discovery will mount on bb, the spi2 pins still overhang the end

look for something called Poly Morph, pricey though. After 6-7 yrs, I’m still only on my second tub.
Nylon beads, become clear and soft in hot water 65C, squeeze and mold as required. Returns to white
as it cools and hardens. The water could be a minor problem.
door handle on gas meter, laptop supports/positioning hooks and a keyfob.

stephen

zmemw16 wrote:precisely, oodles of bread boards.
even though the vl-discovery will mount on bb, the spi2 pins still overhang the end

look for something called Poly Morph, pricey though. After 6-7 yrs, I’m still only on my second tub.
Nylon beads, become clear and soft in hot water 65C, squeeze and mold as required. Returns to white
as it cools and hardens. The water could be a minor problem.
door handle on gas meter, laptop supports/positioning hooks and a keyfob.

stephen

Andy

[STILL_OFF_TOPIC]

So you mean Silicon sealant e.g. as used in showers etc

Does it need to be the acetic cure type? I generally use the other sort (not sure what its called), as it doesn’t smell as bad.

One trick you can do with silicon sealant is use something like washing up detergent to prevent it sticking to some part of the project.

I have done a quite good draftproofing job on a lot of my wooden windows, by painting the frame with detergent, then putting silicon sealant on the window’s and then closing them.
Leave for a day and if you’ve not used too much silicon, you can open the windows again and remove the detergent, and you now have much better seal.

The other thing I do is to sculpt hot glue, using my reflow air tool. I just set it to 100 deg and it has the effect of remelting the hot glue, and makes it flow again. This can be useful if you can’t really get the glue nozzle to where it needs to be, or the glue cools too quickly, as applying hot air makes it running again, and smooths off the surface as well, and you can blow it around a bit to move it, and it generally neatens up anywhere you have use hot glue and gets rid of those stringy bits and lumps in the surface

[/STILL_OFF_TOPIC]

The acetic acid type works best. Some suppliers sell acrylic sealants as “bathroom sealant”. Acrylic sealants most probably wont work, since they will not set faster due to the binders I suggested.

The hotglue and hot air trick is one I have used too.

You can melt hot glue sticks on the stove in a suitable container too (its a fire hazard of course).

It can be poured (burn and scald hazard) into a mould, but it doesn’t take fine detail very well, and obviously is not very robust.

You can also dip things in the hot glue pot to waterproof them (assuming they can cope with the >100°C temperature).